Mods, repairs, and technical questions go here. What are you working on?
The majority of problems with cartridge-based consoles can be remedied by cleaning the cartridge slot and the contacts of your games even if they are not visibly dirty. Consult the Game and Console Cleaning guide here:
If you have any questions about a non-/vr/ console, try posting on the forum ( http://forums.gametechwiki.com/ ) and letting us know here that you did.
Does anyone have experience fixing NeoGeo MVS controls?
My second player A button (and to a lesser extent B and C) "works" but it requires a really hard button press. I assume the connection is good, and maybe its just the contacts are worn down or something, since it does register the button press on occasion.
I figure if I'm going to do one, I may as well do the rest. I'll probably end up posting on the neogeo forums at some point regardless.
How do I properly bend this pin back in place?
I took a look I think the microswitches are just wearing out.
They look like : http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/D413-R1AA/CH987-ND/4580798
I swapped my D button switches with my A button switches since obviously the D button ones wear out less and a lot of games only use the A button. None of my games even use the D button.
I'm looking for alternative switches. Those ones seem a bit expensive and they have a life of ~50k clicks, and for a game like Metal Slug thats probably going to wear out real fast.
Pic isn't mine, but thats what the underside of the controls look like.
If I can find some good switches I'll probably just replace them all (including the switches for the sticks), one of them has been replaced already by the previous owner.
my saturn was skipping on disc reading, I opened it up lubed up the gears, cleaned the laser, and unplugging and plugged the cd drive back in. It worked but, I want to know how can I prevent this from happening again other than those precautions.
>Having to register for a no name form that no one is on to ask a question that will never get answered.
Have you even looked on there? Questions but no answers. No fucking thanks.
I'll take it to a more populated form before I register there.
>Have you even looked on there?
Since it came into existence, two people have asked questions in the repair forum, and I don't have an answer to either.
Two of the countless people who came to this thread to ask about things that aren't /vr/ related, most of them, like you, too lazy to even try.
Even if we gave you a fix, by your attitude you would have thrown it away anyway, because it would be too much effort.
the best for the gamecube is the wasp add the megadrive and you are done, also like 2 weeks ago someone on the gamecube forims discovered autoboot for the wasp, dont go for the xeno, wasp+ megadrive cover everything perfect compatibility for the wasp, audistreaming for the megadrive so you have a 100% compatible cube zero lag.
>why would anyone will register in a dead forum?
The flaw in your argument is that the forum isn't dead, it's never been born. Because people have refused to post there because "registering iz 2 hard waa" there are few posts, which deters people willing to solve issues and people with issues.
forgot to add atari age
sd swiss autoboot zero lag
look here megadrive v5 + wasp
dont go for v6 it sucks balls to install
also im waiting for this the hd gamecube cable solution
If you need a voltage regulator but a linear one is producing too much heat, use a similar switching regulator. The 7805SR-C should be a more or less exact replacement for the 7805C, 7.5+ volts in, 5 volts out.
Just asking, but what are you doing?
Heatsinks, always gotta be startin shit. Best of luck with that mod.
I'm torn on what to do with my SNES. It's an RGB-02, so it has the 2nd version of the video encoder chip in it. I want to install an S-Video plug into it, since the 2nd version doesn't support native component right off the chip. I'm just not sure if I should drill a new hole for it, or pull the RF module and use that hole or maybe widen it up a little.
Any thoughts, opinions?
Ok I got one for you guys.
I found a Turbografix 16 controller in a thrift store parking lot the other day, it's cord was cut, but was otherwise perfect shape. Anyhow I grabbed it, since I have a PC engine figuring it'd re-wire it with a Mini DIN connector and use it as a spare controller.
Only problem is the only PC engine controller I have is a Hori Commander, and the board is different so I have no idea what goes where, and Google has failed me.
Anyhow I've mapped out the colors in a spare 8-Pin DIN cable and crimped JST ends on it, but any help in figuring out which wire goes where would be hugely appreciated.
So the end of my Dreamcast controller has been coming out for a while. I've tried to avoid pulling it out, but I'm looking to get some lightguns and play House of the Dead and switching back and forth is obviously going to put some wear on it.
I don't know what to call the parts, so the black bit is coming out of the white bit and can come out far enough to start turning around.
I could just glue it back in but I figure that'll make fixing the wires later a nightmare, and I figure those wores are having a lot of unintended strain put on them every time I unplug the controller since they're the only thing holding it together.
Figured it out last nigh by reading what each leg of the 74HC157 IC does, and what each pin on the Mini DIN connector does, then following the traces on the PCB.
If anyone is curious, pic is attached (disregard colors, cable is likely gonna be different). Pin 1~8 on the DIN and JST connector should match up, with 9 going to shield.
I switched the case on a Gameboy Color, everything worked great. Noticed some dust, opened it back up, got rid of the dust, now the thing wont power on. It'll barely light up, then die, like the batteries are dead but I've tried new batteries. Any ideas?
What you've described is not even remotely approaching what we would consider adequate packaging, so you certainly have a case for a dispute.
A big bubble bag would have been moved as general freight which includes boxes and gets sorted in cages as it moves around the network. Your console would have been subjected to a hundred or more pounds of freight piled on it at any given time, which is going to be an issue if your packaging is inadequate.
Inadequate packaging also voids any insurance, but given how the seller cheaped out on shipping material I highly doubt he opted for any insurance.
He'll probably claim he has sent tons of things the same way and never had a problem. Whether that's true or not, being a lucky son of a bitch on other parcels doesn't make it okay to ship something like a console in a bubble bag.
I agree, even a box is not adequate.
>SNES and SNES advantage
>Literally just thrown in a box
>damaged 2 of the switches on the joystick and busted the snes shell to oblivion
He refunded me 50%, but I was still pretty pissed.
On the side, let's say that I had an unspecified portable game system and a pair of buttons were completely unresponsive while the rest of them worked fine, what sort of troubleshooting might I do in general?
How would you guys suggest mailing anything? If it was just the console in a bubble mailer, it shouldn't of gotten harmed. A console should have a box though, just because it needs the space to fit the other stuff in, then in a box it needs padding so stuff doesn't hit each other but a cardboard box isn't going to keep it from getting damaged anymore than a bubble mailer would.
How would that spot be made while in post?
So this is slightly off topic
I'm finally going back to school.
I'm a repairman by trade but have very little electronic knowledge, what sort of program/classes should I take to gain knowledge that would be useful in repairing my old game shit and CRTs?
I accidentally dropped my copy of Demon's Souls (I know, not retro. Can still apply to retro games) and a little piece got chipped off on the edge. It still plays, but I don't know if this will affect the game in any way. Anyone knowledgeable in this type of situation?
Box is always the best option but it depends what it is.
My procedure is what one would call excessive, but I get a lot of compliments in my ebay feedback about being well packaged so...
>wrap the individual items like a present in paper towel
>bag items in a ziplock bag (I've had one package ruined because it was left out in the rain, and it helps to keep things dry on the inside)
>push out all the air and zip it, then roll the end and tape it closed
>depending on value/number of components I may put them in another ziplock bag I usually individually bag things
>If its just a game, like an NES SNES or PS1/PS2 game I usually wrap in thin bubble wrap and a bubble mailer.
>Ifr its something like a handheld, or an expensive game, I take the bagged item, put in either more paper towel, brown paper or bubble wrap (depends what i have on hand)
I've also been known to reinforce edges or boxes with extra cardboard and duct tape.
Then again I'm a small time seller. It doesn't surprise me that big time sellers don't put in any effort.
Throwing in a dryer sheet can also be a nice touch, because it will suck up any of the bubble wrap or brown papers smell. A lot of the time the "cigarette" smell people claim is just from bubble wrap/shipping materials.
Not too much.
I keep all boxes and bubble mailers that I get from ordering stuff online and use those. Same with bubble wrap and brown paper.
I usually just have ziplock bags and paper towel at home just because its a standard thing to have in the house. Packing and duct tape I bought a case of so theres a shitload of it in there, but I use it for other stuff.
I almost exclusively use poly bubble mailers. For cartridge games I'll wrap them in more bubble wrap, but don't think it makes any difference just do it for the buyers.
I really don't think it matters how you ship stuff, unless you send an unsealed box. If it's going to get damaged cardboard isn't going to protect it any better than plastic. Am I wrong in my thinking?
A box actually makes a huge difference in a parcel's survivability. The edges and corners of a cardboard box have a lot more structural strength than you'd think.
The key is to ensure the box is packed tight. You want all of the space in the box taken up by your items and packing material, with as little empty space in there as possible. Empty space will cave in effortlessly and compromise the box, allowing it to crush. Packing material will resist and spread out the load to protect your contents.
Your shipment has to share space on a plane or truck, and that means it could end up at the bottom of a heavy pile of freight. That's just how it is. Nobody runs over or impales shit with a forklift on a regular basis. Any carrier will have procedures and policies in place at to limit how much a parcel has to endure, so that nothing properly packaged should be in danger.
I have a Genesis 1 with some interesting issues. It only powers on if you hold the cable to the left and the power adapter makes a rather loud hum after being plugged in for a few minutes. It's an official 1602-1 power adapter.
I recently bought famicom edition of Castlevania 3 and was wondering what be the most affordable option since I already got the famicom adapter in order to get the full power of the VRC6 and other expansion audio just modding the console or modding the adapter in order to get the full sound?
So in the process of trying to replace the dead motor in my PS1, I managed to fuck up what I thought would be the easy part by stripping both the screws that hold the motor in place (pic related). Any ideas on how I can either unfasten them now or just remove their heads?
Very limited tools on-hand, but if it requires some things I don't have I can always buy those later on.
Also feel free to shit on me for stripping them, I deserve it.
I need some advice
My snes is acting weird. Some games like Illusion of Gaia (And terranigma, repro and not repro connected with a PAR3) completely refuse to work on it, but work perfectly on a friends Snes
Not only this, but recently, always at the very same specific part in games, the screen the scrolls vertically. EX: At the company logo in Super Puyo Puyo, at the mist before the Giant Koopa boss in Yoshi's Island. Always at specific parts, never randomly.
I've been told it might be my pin connector, is that true? Anything else needed to repair it?
Forgot to add more details. Some other games works, but doesn't. Seiken Densetsu boots, but absolutely refuses to go in the file select menu, it just goes back to the booting screen, intro screen and title screen.
Other games like Radical Rex, the game start, then the screen scrolls vertically forever but no characters appears at all, the game seems to be locked there, I hope my snes isn't completely fucked
in that sort of situation i've used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to make a straight notch through the head of the screws so i could use a flatblade screwdriver on them. alternatively, you *might* be able to grab them with a vice grip and break them loose. looking at your pic, though, they dont seem that badly stripped. you should be able to still get them with a proper sized phillips, which if you had used in the first place you could have avoided this whole mess all together.
I've got a green game boy pocket that for the most part, still works great. However, occasionally when pressing down on the d-pad, the game will react like I pressed the start button instead. Also, it comes in spurts, like for weeks at a time it won't happen, and then it will start happening so frequently that I'll have to stop playing. Anyone have any idea what is happening here? Is it some sort of weird intermittent short-circuit or something?
>when pressing down on the d-pad, the game will react like I pressed the start button instead
There's a problem with the key matrix.
It consists of 4 inputs and 2 outputs, one for the d-pad and the other one for the rest.
>Anyone have any idea what is happening here?
Hard to tell, maybe reflowing the solder of the CPU could help in case of dry solder joints or maybe some traces for the key matrix are fucked.
pic related is reverse engineered from the GB classic but still similar in operation, the pinout of the MGB-CPU is different and can be found here:
Thanks for the info!
>maybe reflowing the solder of the CPU could help in case of dry solder joints
I don't have the equipment to do a proper re-flow but would putting the whole gameboy in a small cardboard box and heating it up with a hair dryer do the trick? I have a proper heat gun as well but I suspect that would damage the unit. I'd really rather not have to take it apart but if it comes down to that, I can. It can't be harder than replacing a screen in a PSP can it?
>but would putting the whole gameboy in a small cardboard box and heating it up with a hair dryer do the trick?
>I have a proper heat gun as well but I suspect that would damage the unit
Yes, this is quite correct but you could also cause damage with the proper equipment.
I think you could use that, just start slowly and on the lowest setting for 15 seconds or so and be careful not to burn your hands after you heated the board up, it's easy to underestimate how much and how long a circuit board can stay hot.
Basically you do that what people on youtube did to fix their xbox 360 with the red ting failure.
But before you start you should visually inspect the CPU and the traces of the buttons with an magnifying glass, maybe you can find something.
>I'd really rather not have to take it apart but if it comes down to that, I can. It can't be harder than replacing a screen in a PSP can it?
I don't know but there are no plastic hooks there, as soon the triwing screws (Y shaped) are out it gets loose.
Better be careful not to loose any parts when it comes apart.
I still need to order a triwing bit but amazon prime has them for cheap. Hopefully I can tackle this project over the weekend. If I remember I'll post results. Thanks again for the help!
Do yourself a favor and order some liquid flux to put on the areas you are reflowing as well. It will make the solder heat quicker with lower temperatures and flow onto the legs and pads of the cpu. If it's a leg less cpu (BGA), use the brush in the bottle to put it under the chip and use the heat over the chip itself. Big thing is to use small circular motions and not stay in one spot too long. Good luck.
>Do not use the cheap 95 percent or lower solutions as they contain water that is corrosive.
Unless you live underwater in a swamp, the 5% water in the 95% alcohol is going to evaporate hours before corrosion would think about starting.
I just got my front loader, presumably pal (it was given to me by an uncle, I have no idea where he got it) nes out from storage upstairs last night, only to find that:
>it has no power cable
>double dragon was sitting in the catrdge slot as if ready to play
Will any power cable that fits the nes and is the right voltage/amps work? Will leaving a game in the nes like that damage it? (I have no case for the game unfortunately) Also wanna know if the red/white av ports on the side are needed for play. I'm assuming that picture would come through the aerial port or sound through the av cables...? but for now I have no way to test it
>it has no power cable
The original is 9Vac, 1.3A and a classic quality transformer with fuse.
>Will any power cable that fits the nes and is the right voltage/amps work?
You can simply take any other power supply with the right barrel plug (2.5x5.5mm) which either outputs 9-12V AC or DC and 1-1.5A, polarity doesn't matter here.
You should be able to buy such a power supply on eBay or whatever you like.
Usually there are many intended for LED strips or maybe some laptops but DON'T buy a aftermarket power supply which is 'made' for NES or other retro systems, these suck ass.
>double dragon was sitting in the catrdge slot as if ready to play
Well, the PAL version of that game (if it's the first) is kinda rare IMO.
>Will leaving a game in the nes like that damage it?
For a long time it could but it sure can be fixed if you take your time and be patient, you properly have to bend every pin manually with some safety pin or fine screwdriver.
Aftermarket 72pin connectors are also not recommended as they don't have any gold coating like the original one and can fuck up your games.
To ensure that cartridge based consoles work reliably, you should clean every game you get and simply don't insert games that aren't clean. Simply keep the console and cartridges as clean as possible then they work perfect every time, like mine.
My NES,SNES,N64 and GB always work on the first try, if not then on the second or third attempt and that happens very rarely.
>Also wanna know if the red/white av ports on the side are needed for play.
Yes, simply plug some good RCA cables into the video (yellow) and audio (red) jacks on the side to the AV input of your TV and you should be ready to go.
>I'm assuming that picture would come through the aerial port
RF jack is white and on the back, you don't need this shit and better follow the above advice.
Gonna buy this for very cheap.
Any good way to remove the yellow tint?
fucking phone, ignored all I wrote.
So, I got a PAL Mario land (I live on NTSC land) and no matter how many times I try, I always get pic related when I try to play it.
Already tried on a GB, a GBC, a GBA SP and a Super GB, all with the same results.
Already opened it up to see if there's any issue with it but I couldn't find anything, I also checked continuity and all pins seem to be properly connected to their corresponding legs.
Afaik, the GB is not region locked, so what could cause this problem?
yeah, I cleaned them shiny, it should be working but the thing that bugs me is that it is always glitched in that exact way, on all gb's I've tried. I hasn't worked not even once since I got it, always that exact glitched Nintendo logo.
I just spent some time figuring out how exactly this:
was build up and I wanted to know it anyways.
I can tell you that D6 is shorted to power (judging from the nice pic you posted), or in other words it's always 1 and never 0.
That must be pin 28 on the cart edge, pin 32 is ground and pin 1 is power (5V).
Measure if you have a short to power on that pin, if not then inspect the pin of the ROM.
I do have a defective Commodore character ROM, where one data pin is internally shorted to power and the difference between that and yours is that this one is NMOS where Nintendo's ROMs are mostly CMOS.
Now this is starting to get weird.
Perhaps the bonding wire (the connection between outside pin and silicon die) got damaged but that doesn't make much sense as this ROM never gets hot nor is it prone to electromigration as the current was always very small (<1mA) in normal circumstances.
You can find this out by measuring these two ESD protection diodes (see pic) which are on every pin, if you don't know how to measure diodes then ask google.
If you can't measure the proper forward voltage of around 700mV then it's open and it would explain why the CPU reads a 1 on that pin because if you turn on a GB with no cartridge then you simply get black block instead of the Nintendo logo as the CPU only reads 0xFF (D0-D7 are 1) on the data bus at address 0x0104-0x0133.
>I checked all pins to 3 and 30
You don't need to do that, only pin 27.
>I checked all pins to 3 and 30
>You don't need to do that, only pin 27.
whoops, I meant from 3 to 30, just to make sure none of them were shorted to 1.
I'm gonna check those protection diodes.
Here's a tough one: this original PS1 dualshock was in perfect, mint condition, until I used this motherfucker chinese adapter to play on my PC with it. After using it a couple of times, now the X button is dead. It doesnt work even in the console.
Is there anything I can do, not being an expert electrician? I assume some connector got burned out or something, but it somehow only affects that one button. Any ideas?
Pic related, its my controller and the fucking adapter I wish I never bought
Without being able to tell with a multimeter exactly what voltage the adapter is sending to the controller, and without being able to see the controller's PCB to look for damage, no, we really can't help you. If you want to take a multimeter to the adapter or open the controller up and show us the PCB, we might be able to help, otherwise what do you expect us to be able to do?
Could I take a SNES advantage or NES advantage board and convert it to use real arcade components? Seems like an easy way to refurbish my busted button sticks and get superior quality.
Im not at homefor the next few days so I can't look at the boards.
I got my super advantage and score master this weekend. Stripped them down to clean inside and out.
Hey are rather shallow, so would struggle to fit full size arcade buttons
You could install tactile switches under the buttons in place of rubber domes and wire them to the PCB.
I'm making a shed arcade stick using proper arcade stick and buttons, a Tupperware enclosure and a Chinese SNES controller PCB / cable.
I'd definitely be building a case for it. The shell is smashed on my SNES advantage and it doesn't let me use the turbo switches because its so bashed up.
I would just use a standard SNES/NES controller but I do kinda want the extra features the advantage controllers have, like turbo, auto-fire, etc.
I'll probably end up ordering some buttons and a stick then. I never cared for the squishy feel of those advantage sticks.
I just repaired my N64 PSU (230V).
I guess my hacked together MultiAV plug shorted 12V (added via a diode 1N4007) to ground and the "voltage monitor" failed to sense the drop fast enough and didn't shut it off and this caused that the fuse for 12V tripped.
Careful inspection revealed that this PSU has at least 5 protection components:
-Picofuses with 125V 5A for 3.3V (ICP2) and 2.5A (but a 2A was installed instead) for 12V (ICP1), located near the silver heatsink
-Thermofuse 125°C on golden looking heatsink for the transistor Q1
-Subminiature fuse 250V 1.6A right after the mains connector
Now there's a voltage monitor that will shut off both voltages if one of them is outside the correct range, if that happened then it needs to 'cool off' by disconnecting the PSU from mains for around 15 minutes.
Now the lack of 12V always causes it to shut off 3.3V, but it still allowed it to rise as I could see that the LED on the N64 flashed if I plugged it in.
Now that I got it running, I measured the voltages and with 3.2V; 10.5V they were little lower than they should be.
I thought that the 470ohm trimmer R33 was for output voltage adjustment and I was right, it increases or decreases both of them.
So it's very important that 3.3V is correct as it powers most important stuff directly, 12V isn't critical as it only goes to a 78M05 (5V for video/audio ICs), cartridge slot (only used by very special cartridges like the Wide-boy64) and the expansion port on the bottom.
Now what's quite weird is that the voltages increase a little bit if a load is attached (which is the opposite of linear transformers).
That's why it should be adjusted to 3.1-3.2V first with no load attached and then to around 3.35V with a load of around 1.7A on it along with a load of 100mA on the 12V rail or you could just stuff the bare PSU into the N64 and adjust it in there like I did.
I salvaged a small 2A SMD fuse from some old PCB from a HDD.
And this is a quite practical way to accidentally commit suicide, if a certain one lacks the experience.
I attached the probes before connecting to mains.
I'm going to be lubricating my DC's wormgear tomorrow. Should I use some on the plastic gears as well?
It shouldn't be too difficult but the snes super advantage has very low clearance and the holes are small so arcade buttons would likely not fit.
Do you mean to replace the rubber membrane things with tactile buttons? That should work without too much effort.
I have no experience with modding. I've been considering getting a Saturn, and I was wondering - how high is the mess-up potential in modifying a 50hz console to run at 60hz? My only alternative's buying a Japanese console and hoping the power converter doesn't fuck it up.
Not exactly retro, but:
My Micro has had marks on the screen that I assumed were water damage, until I took the faceplate off and took a closer look.
It's something dried on the surface of the screen, so it's something I could clean.
My question is, what's the best way to do so without damaging the screen? I'm concerned a dry Q-tip might scratch it and I don't want to apply water or alcohol without being sure of it.
Also I'm aware the rest of it needs cleaning, that's beside the point.
I'm experiencing a weird issue with a snes controller I got at a yard sale. It works perfectly fine, as long as you only ever press any button one at a time. If you press two inputs at once, the game behaves as though there is no input at all. IE in Megaman X I cannot move to the left while jumping, and in LoZ I cannot walk diagonally. What could be causing this? I scrubbed the pads--no dice.
So My Saturn suddenly stopped working today. The disc drive just won't spin at all.
It was working fine just yesterday. I didn't move it around or anything.
I opened the Saturn once to wrap the disc tray switch-thing with tape so that it would let me open the lid while spinning the disc to perform disc swap (I only did disc swap once, to install pseudosaturn on my AR4 cart).
When I turn the Saturn on, the lens moves, but that's all it does. Discs won't spin.
Phillips head screws are terrible, even with the right size driver you can still strip the screws due to excessive force required on some of them. My headphones for example only had 1 out of 6 phillips head screws removable without them being dremel'd into flatheads.
I bought a lot of Metal Slug 1-4 and X on MVS.
1 2 and 3 work fine (well, one could argue that 2 being on perma-slow down is not "fine") but 4 and X are wrecked.
I've tried in all my slots. 4 doesn't shot half the graphics and then green screens if you make it through character select. X seems to have issues just straight up booting up.
Any ideas if I can even fix them? I cleaned the contacts after testing initially hoping it would fix it, but nothing. Then I took them apart and cleaned the rest of the board and its still doing the same thing.
Anyone have any idea whats wrong with my Robotron 2084 arcade?
I've heard it's a bad rom chip on the video board but I'd like to be sure before I shell out a 100 dollars for a repairman to come fix it.
Any details on what happened before the problem started? Is this machine new to you, has it been in storage for a long time, did it get moved and just stop working?
The pink snow moving is part of the normal startup. It should wipe then "scroll" and maybe repeat if the batteries are dead. But it should display some text in the black screen in between and after.
Probably the most you're going to manage to do on your own is reseat the roms. If you've done this before and and comfortable with it give it a try. There's a good chance it will improve things, if not fix everything. If not there's not much you're going to do on your own.
>Any details on what happened before the problem started? Is this machine new to you, has it been in storage for a long time, did it get moved and just stop working?
I bought it off a comic store owner. I used to play it at his shop. He said that it stopped working after a while and it was getting too expensive to keep fixing. People would come in and really abuse the machine, anime con people. He left it down in storage for a good while before he sold it to me. I loaded it up in the back of a van where it was stable and then stuck it in my living room. I got it on the cheap because I was planning on fixing it.
The bits that usually need fixing are on the panel where people abuse it. The guts are pretty sturdy as evidenced by it lasting as many years as it has. Unfortunately I'm guessing that if someone who had been fixing it for years gave up on it it's probably not a simple fix. Still, it's worth reseating everything to see what happens. It's not going to make it worse and might save you paying someone else to do it, because that's the first thing anyone is going to do.
The best thing you can do is give the board a good, hard look over.
Look for scratches, damaged components, excessive dirtiness, or anything that looks wrong.
Also, if you go look up lukemorse1 on youtube, he has a lot of arcade board repair videos. You'll have to go back a bit for the better ones, but there's good info on what to look for and how to fix it.
I have this Game Boy that I found at a thrift shop for cheap, but the screen has a blank space on the right. It's blank, cutting off the picture, but I noticed vertical lines sometimes show up in that space. Is there a way to fix this?
Sorry for the dim screen in the picture...I took it at a game shop...I don't own any GB games, and I didn't realize that the screen wasn't showing well in the picture until I got home.
Yes and no
The ribbon cable they used to attach the screen to the board was glued on. That glue has dried up and has come loose, thus loosing contact.
What I've done with some success is taking the rubber strip off protecting the cable and heat it with a low temperature with my soldering iron. Rub back and fourth on the problem spot but do NOT leave it in one place for too long, you will burn though the cable.
I do this while the Game boy is turned on with the contrast all the way into the black so I can see the lines. You should see some of them start to flicker. When that happens wait about one second and then push on the cable with a flat head screw driver.
If done right, the glue will turn back into a semi stick stat and re-attach to the screen.
I've done this with some success. Some Game Boys I've fixed this way have stayed fine after, while others showed the problem again the next day.
I did this different:
>You should see some of them start to flicker. When that happens wait about one second and then push on the cable with a flat head screw driver.
I just let it cool off and if it vanished again then I repeated it over and over again.
>while others showed the problem again the next day.
The one I did stayed fine for 4 years because I didn't used double sided tape for the rubber strip. The one I did a few months ago was more worse than anons, half of the lines on the entire screen were missing and it took me 4 hours to solder them back and it still works nice.
Also put double sided tape on the rubber piece and put it back, or else it won't last at all.
I made SNES > NES and a NES > SNES controller adapters by rewiring a pair of controller extennsion leads.
Used the pinout guide in pic.
They both work fine for their respective consoles and controllers, so I am positive that I have wired them correctly. All buttons work etc.
Only problems I face are as follows:
Official NES controller doesn't seem to connect properly 9/10 times. No connection seem to be loose and the controller works fine on my NES.
If I use the NES advantage it works 100% fine.
If I use an official NES controller with a replacement chinese connector, that works fine too.
Secondly; using the adapter on Mario Allstars, controls are picked up fine, but as soon Mario 1, 3 or Lost levels are selected, they will load and then reset back to the title screen.
Mario Bros 2 (USA) doesn't have this problem.
If I use a SNES controller to get Mario 1 or 3 ec. into the map screen or a level and then switch to a NES controller with adapter, everything works fine.
I ensured there are no bridged connections. The pins are all seated in the pastic properly etc.
Any ideas Anons?
The problem is a RAM chip (small ones on the CPU board) not a ROM chip (big ones with labels on the ROM board). If you swap the ram chip with one next to it the error message will change if that's the problem. For example from 1,2,5 to 1,3,5. That's the simplest way to confirm if the ram chip is bad of it it's something else (bad socket, trace, etc)
Anyone know tricks for faking a hdmi input?
I have a SCART upscaler, but it only outputs to the TV via HDMI if it sees a HDMI input too.
With no HDMI input, it doesn't activate any output, regardless of SCART input.
Hoping it doesn't completely rely on the external HDMI input passing through to give the TV a scart input.
Confirmed it's not my TV as there is an audio jack output on the upscaler, and that won't even output unless there is a HDMI input.
Got a majority refund based on this as I need to be able to use it when I don't have a HDMI device to input into the upscaler but connect my SNES / N64 etc. to a DVI monitor.
Tried linking the +5V line on the scart (Pin 16) to +5V line on HDMI (Pin 18) but this didn't do anything.
Can you use some of the Scart input lines bridged to the HDMI input to maake it think it is receivng a signal?
No not enough information. We have no way of knowing what causes your device to output via HDMI and no way to find out because you've provided no information.
If you're going to tie 5v to something you'd probably want to tie it to hot plug detect.
I've come here and asked because I don't know much at all about video technologies beyond composite and RGB.
I have provided the useful information I can think of off the top of my head.
You could have at least advised on a comprehensive list of useful information required that I can go and gather and how I would go about it so we can progress.
Have tried +5V to the hotplug, but again there was nothing.
There can only be a limited number of pins used to get a device to read that it's got some form of input and activate.
I'll tell you that it's one of these Chinese cheap HDMI upscalers, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1080P-SCART-to-HDMI-Upscaler-Converter-Monitor-HDTV-Wii-Sky-XBox-PS3-STB-TV-DVD-/331657842886?hash=item4d385910c6
Someone will tell me to fuck off and get a decent upscaler, and I will tell them that it's not for the speed or qualty, just reitterate it's so I can use SCART on a DVI mnitor.
I have the exact same adapter, and it works without something pluged in "hdmi input". Even tried with a DVI cable with an HDMI-DVI adapter.
You just got a defective unit I guess
Got a sports edition Dreamcast discovered pic related part came off the power board after hearing a rattling noise. Should I be worried? The console plays fine from what I've tested.
Yeah, it's fucked for like 99% of people.
Just would be easier to get a junk game boy and try and salvage the front LCD and board from it.
A missing cap is NEVER a good sign even if the console works.
I'd find a replacement ASAP.
A clear picture would be nice but it says 16v. I can't really make out the number under it. That's the capacitors rating.
You're going to need some soldering skills to replace it
Does it look like it came out of the slot there marked C53?
it looks like 330uF from the pic. Could be OK could be bad, depends where it is in the power section, looks like it's the output smoothing cap for the 12V rail considering the size, position, and 16V rating. Might function ok, the problem is when something spurious happens on the rail, without the cap it might take out some other components.
Should be able to solder it or find someone to solder it.
Good job man, was about to tell you to look up the data sheet, or just hook it up with jumpers such that you could easily remap the buttons while playing a game with a known controller config.
Re solder it. However make sure you solder it back in the correct polarity (it seems to me that the negative leg goes into the left side - it is marked on the board, just check the other caps). If you put it in backwards, bad things will happen, possibly explosive ones.
What that capacitor does is dampen any frequency ripples and generally act as an electric buffer. The machine will work without it to a degree, but it may be less stable, hence "to a degree" - it might stay rock stable, it might crash or overheat twice as easily.
If you replace it, make sure you keep the exact same uF rating, and that the voltage is AT LEAST as high as the cap you replace. You shouldn't use lower voltage caps. Higher voltage will work equally fine, but is more expensive, so a waste of money (you won't feel like that if you buy 1 cap, but once you buy them in the dozens...).
The thing I'd most be concerned with, is whether the solder pads on the bottom are still intact, or if they got broken off the PCB. A through-hole cap shouldn't just fall off like that.
I order one of these OriginalXbox-to-USBport adapters online two weeks ago and it finally arrived in the mail today.
The first thing I did was plug it in and then plugged a Playstation-to-USB adapter onto it and plugged in my Dualshock2 controller. The Playstation adapter lights up and the Dualshock2 lights up when you press the Analog button, but it doesn't work on the XBMC dashboard and doesn't work in the NES emulator either.
Any ideas on what I have to do to make it work? I know the cable itself functions, I plugged in a USB flashdrive into it and XBMC detected it.
All that cable does is make a USB drive show up as a memory card.
It doesn't convert any signals.
I really hope you didn't but it with the intention of playing with a PS2 controller.
The main thing they're used for is soft modding xboxes.
One of the reviews on the product said that they used it to play their Genesis and Saturn controllers with it, using another USB adapter for them as well.
Here's the exact product I purchased
So being the fucking dunce I am I just fried my PSOne by feeding it 9 V (merely weeks after I finally modchiped the fucker). I figured if it was OK with 8.5 (PS2 PSU) 9 wouldn't hurt... I was wrong...
Sorry for the extreme potato quality photo.
Damage seems very localized though, and I was thinking maybe it would be possible to repair? From what I can see it's only these two SMD components? Then again what you don't see can always be much worse, can't it?
The motor of the CD unit smells kind of strange too though, and I'm wondering if it's possible that that's fried too. In which case just getting a new mobo is out of the question.
Yeah. I guess the lesson is don't fuck around with this shit while drunk. Also I've gotten too used to 7805-equipped units like the Famicom, Super Famicom and PC Engine. Those fuckers don't really care what you put in them.
Well to an extent you don't overheat the regulator of course (and you shouldn't fuck up the polarity). But I've put in from 6 V to like 10 V in ye old SFC and PC Engine and they work fine. I think 9 is canonical for those though?
But enough of calling me a dumbass, I'm already aware of this fact, and more helping me analyze the situation here. Is it likely that the CD unit was fried too?
Sorry I can't help, but just wanted to say that I had this same problem. Killed the X button on my favorite PSOne controller. The adapter worked fine for a long time before it happened.
I'm trying to restore an old SNES, but I need to take out those goddamn screws it has.
And I don't know how to improvise a screwdriver for these. Or how such screwdriver would be called.
Hi! Guy who fried his PSOne here, some 12 V Zener Diode shopping later. The PSOne seems to be working fine now. This post >>2738975 got me in the right direction, thanks.
I've also learned a lesson to be more careful what PSUs you plug into equipment. Especially when it comes to late 90s CMOS equipment that is anal about voltage and even current.
Okay so Im hooking up my SNES and Gamecube with composite cables (RYW) and I'm looking to buy a tv (need to get HD for convenience, can't go with CRT) and I notice pretty much all the units available have component inputs (RBG). I'm wondering will I be able to connect? I can really go with any model, probably gonna go with a samsung, insignia, dynex for around 200. Do I need an adaptor of some kind? Thanks in advance
I have a Mega CD with a typical blown fuse issue. I never got around to fixing it, but around the time it blew, I found a video on Youtube with someone who doesn't just replace the fuse, they wire it up so you can swap it easy any time it breaks.
Has anyone seen this? I've searched for it again and haven't found it. Most videos are just the standard how to take out a fuse, etc.
Do new TVs not have composite? I don't own one, so I don't know. Doing a quick search on eBay, I see that converters do exist, although they seem expensive. I will say that one day I went to look at how my parent's DVD player was hooked up to their TV, and they were using a composite cable through the component ports...I don't know why it worked, but it did.
Guys I know this "non-retro issue" problems these threads have been dealing with, and this is probably the least retro issue posted on these threads, and I apologize in advance but really, there's no other place to ask in the whole 4chan.
So, my Wii U Gamepad left analog stick has become faulty (it suddenly moves wherever the hell it wants), I have several busted controllers from other consoles for spare parts, soldering is not a problem. But I really don't want to open this thing yet unless I am 100% certain I have the correct replacement part.
So the question is, can I use a PS3, Xbox 360 or Wii U Pro analog joystick module to replace the one on the Wii U Gamepad?
I'm finding myself playing more NES games in marathon fashion, and after one instance in Life Force I'm finding a worry for secure contact connections. Is it worth it to buy a top loader for this? From what I've seen they only do RF output, is it easy to mod them to do other things, like composite or even component?
So, my PS2 is officially not reading some of my PS1 discs, so I need to replace the laser. I'm wondering if there's a recommended laser to get because I know at least some PS2 lasers have calibration problems and hit the disc?
>how do you know when you've made a mistake?
If you ask yourself "have I practiced how to do this several times?" and the answer is "no" then it would be a very serious mistake to proceed.
Right. I will take your advice and practice on a junk board. Taking the solder off with braid seems easy. I'm worried about, once I stick the caps wires through the holes and attempt to dab solder on them...if I get too much or too little, if any gets on the green board- if that is going to ruin the whole thing...?
Are you using the proper power supply? If you're using pic related, it will fuck up your output because of interference. You might be able to fix it with a ferrite ring, but you'd probably be better off getting a proper AC adapter.
Does anyone have any experience with replacing dead save batteries in Game Boy games? Am I better off buying a regular CR2025 battery at a store and taping it in (as in this video https://youtu.be/RsROHA7RUCQ), or is it worth buying the batteries on ebay with soldering prongs on them already?
Tried different power supplies. Is there ever a reason to believe that the original power supply could go bad, because that is what I started with.
What exactly does the ferrite ring do- shielding?
>if any gets on the green board- if that is going to ruin the whole thing...?
The green coating is meant to prevent solder from sticking anywhere it's not supposed to. As long as you aren't using too much, it'll stay where you put it. If it's getting too hot, take a break and let it cool down.
Its supposed to help out with interference from the power cord, though I haven't actually tested it myself. If you're using an AC adapter outputting 9v 1.3A and you're still getting interference, I guess its not the power cord. Just wanted to throw that out there since a lot of resellers package garbage cords.
Check that the label fits right and doesn't look like something that was printed and stuck on.
If you're really paranoid, open it up and check the board to see if it looks like a hand soldering job.
So, I'm looking to knock out the NES CIC chip with the two wire mod. Thing is, I don't have the revision they have on the few sites that show the points to solder to.
Would anyone have any high resolution of each NES board revision? Bonus if you provide the two wires you need to connect to knock out the CIC chip
Not this shit again.
Listen, I can clean and clean the games and clean some more. Some just flat refuse to work with the CIC chip on the first boot.
So if you don't have anything valuable to add to this conversation, I ask you to stop.
I don't care what you do, I'm just trying to tell you that removing the thing that tells you your shit is fucked up is stupid.
I take it you disconnected your check engine light, too?
Not the previous poster, but that's a terrible analogy here. Disabling the CIC chip on a NES has absolutely no drawbacks as far as I know. This isn't a fuse, this isn't a critical part of the system even. Nothing will blow up, nothing will act differently (except you can boot more games, more reliably), absolutely nothing of value will be lost either.
>Disabling the CIC chip on a NES has absolutely no drawbacks as far as I know
Gameplay interruption and save game corruption are the two big ones. If it's not reading the game well enough to allow play, there's a chance it'll fuck it up.
Oh a repair-related thread, that's cool.
I checked the wiki but didn't find info in the DS section much so I guess I'll post here.
I have a black DSi where the right shoulder button doesn't work anymore. I don't know what has happened to it. I think maybe some juice spilled under it. It doesn't feel sticky, maybe a bit hard to press. The way it works is it doesn't work unless you press REALLY hard at maybe at a certain angle. Basically makes playing anything that uses the R-button not an option.
Any quick&dirty tips on how to fix it, or would I need to open the thing up and mess with the insides? Everything else about the console works fine, not that I play with it much anymore anyway.
>The way it works is it doesn't work unless you press REALLY hard at maybe at a certain angle. Basically makes playing anything that uses the R-button not an option.
The microswitch is shot and needs to be replaced.
The upside is that it's a simple ribbon cable swap out, and replacements are pretty cheap.
>Gameplay interruption and save game corruption are the two big ones.
my nes CIC chip has been disabled way back in 90's and it never caused any problems, and even nowadays it works perfectly.
why did you even bother to reply then? Do you even have any proof that it can cause problems?
Because it's common knowledge that shitty contact causes screen flashing, and shitty contact can freeze your game and corrupt save data.
If you deny any of these, you're top-speed retard.
If I used this one a console, and connect the VGA to a beamer. Would I get an image?
Then tell me what are downsides of disabling CIC when there are no problems with the contacts(cart and the 72-pin connector itself)? I never mentioned contacts or flashing in the first place because its not issue for me(I can clean my games), is that so fucking hard to understand?
Reason why I disabled it in the first place was to be able to play PAL-A, NTSC+famicom games(latter via adapter) at silky smooth 50hz. If I dont game boots but nes keeps resetting(aka flashing screen), which is most commonly fixed by disabling the CIC chip, there are adapters for it but all they do is disable the CIC chip other ways anyway.
>Reason why I disabled it in the first place was to be able to play PAL-A, NTSC+famicom games
Wow, it's amazing what a reason behind doing something does!
The reason I say this when people come on here wanting to disable the lockout chip is because almost every single one has the misguided opinion that it is the end-all fix for any game reading issue the system has. If you'd mentioned playing games from other regions here>>2750087, I wouldn't have mentioned it.
None, I know, but if I put a SCART connector between them wouldn't it work?
Yes (but only if the projector can accept SCART RGB on DE15 to begin with).
The SCART/VGA connector you see here was meant to be used with VHS player (or LD players), which had a female SCART connector already.
Haven't had any issues with a SNES on my Sanyo Z5 in RGB, but it's been a while. I should have checked if it was outputting 240p or 480i, but didn't care at the time (it just worked, I didn't think much ot it).
As usual, getting the device's documentation is key. Projector manuals have a shit ton information on the supported video modes, spanning sometime 5 pages.
My experience as well. Many support 15khz on component which 15hkz RGB can be converted to easily, cheaply, and without lag. That's probably anyones best bet unless they already have a display that handles RGB
>guy gives no information on why its being disabled.
>common misconceptions on this very thread series is that disabling this means your system will magically work forever without cleaning
>explain this and why it shouldn't be disabled
>guy whines on, only informing why several posts on
>other guy immediately accepts the reason, because it's actually a reason
>you come in and tell people to shut the fuck up and stop bitching
Sure thing, let's just stop telling people correct information when they say they're going to do something, because you don't like it.
General cleaning aside, is there anything I should be doing to my retro consoles to preserve the life in them, or make them "better than new"? I'm looking mostly for simple mods for consoles. I once read that you could replace the capacitors in a SNES to get better sound quality. Are there any small tweaks that you do when buying a new console from a thrift shop?
I made these post. Any other and you're arguing with another anon.
I just want my CIC chip disabled without ripping the leg off the chip Is that so hard to understand? I know it's not a fix all, but I've cleaned my NES, I've cleaned my games, and I've done everything possible to get games working on it and some games just flat out refuse to work on the first boot. The CIC chip is flawed technology. Why do you think they released a top loader without it? Because it just does not work well in the front loader NES.
I for one would love to keep my NES all "orgional" but like I said, the technology is flawed, un-needed, and down right intrusive to keep in a NES.
So, if you really don't have anything to add to help with this simple mod, I'll be ending it here.
Maybe I can get some help from some other people who don't have their head so far up their ass they're looking at their tonsils.
Replacing the caps in a SNES is going to be semi-hard due to most of them being surfaced mounted.
There are some though hole capacitors that you could replace though easily.
Just don't go trying to re-cap a SEGA Genesis. They're a real nightmare of capacitors. I think I counted around 40 when I tried doing one.
>I made these post. Any other and you're arguing with another anon.
The weird thing about anonymity is that if someone else answers something I asked you, I don't know it's not you.
I have a copy of Parasite eve for the playstation and I'm getting black screens at a specific point on the second disc. Is this likely a glitch or the cd itself? When it came to switch the discs it didn't register that I had the disc in, but after I wiped it with a cloth it worked. The disc itself has a about 12 small scratches in a certain area and lots of extremely fine scratches everywhere else. I have no access to a disc resurfacer so should toothpaste suffice?
If you have a pawn shop near you, you most likely have access to a disk resurfacing machine. They charge anything from $1-3 per disk usually.
As for the tooth paste trick, its iffy. What are you playing it on? PS1? PS1 small, PS2, or PS2 slim?
It's most likely the disk having a few scratches.
That or the fact that fat PS2s are starting to die out. They have two adjustments on their laser units. One for DVD and one for CD. It's most likely the disk though.
Before smearing anything on it, I'd clean it with a microfiber cloth from center out (not in a circle pattern) with some 70% alcohol
I've bough from them before on E-bay and they're pretty good with shipping and parts.
Can't say for the quality of the replacements (didn't order a new laser)
Does anyone know what crystal oscillator I should buy for a Sega Genesis model 1 10mhz overclock?
I use digikey for almost all of my electronic parts purchases. I am pretty good at knowing reputable brands for things like capacitors and resistors. But I have no idea what to look for in a crystal oscillator.
I'd rather not buy a random no name off of digikey. I'd appreciate it if someone could give me a suggestion or link/part number to one I could buy.
For caps, some brands are indeed known to be higher quality - last longer, are closer to the given ratings, etc. From the top of my head, I think, Nichicon, Rubycon, and Nippon Chemi-Con are good brands. But there are many others, you should do some research.
Behold! The bottom screen of my Nintendo DSi XL. Can anyone give it a proper diagnosis?
>higher quality brands don't exist!
In this market segment pretty much. Those components have been commoditized for decades. Same with TTL. You're just buying into what some jewbay seller wants you to believe. inb4 your kidgooglefu learns you bout mil spec shit.
Normally I wouldn't take the piss out of a kid for a simple typo but in your case it's so ironic I can help myself.
More of a "here every thread helping who I can"fag.
I was here in the repair threads when they started, I'll be here until they end. Anything more than that isn't relevant.
This will get inside it and to the part you're looking for. Just take a good look at the screen assembly for any loose seals or whatever in that corner. I've only been in a standard DSi, so I can't give you any insight on how the touchscreen assembly is put together.
You should be able to get by using a small flat screwdriver instead of a spudger if you're gentle, and there will be some loud pops or cracking sounds as you pull it apart because of how it clips together, but going slow should prevent anything from breaking.
I have a PSP that I use for emulators and shit and I wanna play it on my TV.
Its a Metal Gear Peacewalker PSP-3000. I have component cables for it, I can get its menu onto the TV screen but as soon as I boot up anything the connection drops and it goes back to the PSP. This is including UMD, and emulators.
I think its the shitty 3.00 shipped Chinese Cable I have.
I updated to latest firmware and nothing. I have an official sony cable coming, 10x the fucking price shipped, but it should actually fucking work.
My psp was barely recognizing the chinese cable.
In the last two years I played a lot of emulated NES games on my pc and now I consider to buy some of theme on cartridge, but I am from Germany and don't own an old tv and wanted to clear some myths:
A NTSC Version looks and feels better than the PAL counterpart - due to higher frame rate and no black stripes; but even if you own a NTSC NES you can't play with it properly on a 60 Hertz CRT TV in Europe (Germany).
If you want to play NTSC games in the PAL region you have to play on a "newer" TV. But if you play it on a digital TV it would look better to play it on an emulator.
So the best way to play old NES games would be:
1. To play NTSC Games on an old CRT TV (Console)
2. To play NTSC Games an a digital TV (Emu)
3. To play NTSC Games on a digital TV (Conslole)
4. To play NTSC Games on a digital TV (Multinorm)
Please help me clear this out and keep in mind I have next to nothing experience with old consoles (my first console was an N64).
The first time I experienced the PAL differences was playing Crash Bandicoot in two version over the ps3 and I don't want to ever play an inferior version again.
The best and easiest way is to play games from your region. Since they will be compatible with your power outlet, and TV's.
Otherwise you need an adapter, then an American TV, and all this other shit.
You people always overthink too much, just get your own stuff. PAL stuff is generally way less expensive then NTSC. The "pal is worse" is more of a meme then anything.
>The "pal is worse" is more of a meme then anything.
Yeah, so many games running 10% slower than they are supposed to is perfectly fine.
PAL IS worse, it's not a meme. You guys got fucked back then.
We got fucked over until 7th gen. SNES era? 50Hz. PSX era? 50Hz. PS2 era? 60Hz for the most part, but for gamecube, progressive scan was actively stripped out from all pal territory games despite a huge amount of the library supporting it.
Also got ganked on the rpg front by virtue of pal.
It wasn't until PS3 etc. that progressive scan and component/hdmi output actually became a mainstream option.
Picture quality wise, PAL is better than NTSC.
We only got fucked for videogames because all content was made in NTSC land.
Then again, you guys were limited to RF and at best Composite for ages, S-Video being obscure and almost never used, while we had glorious RGB Scart everywhere.
any decently recent (ie from the mid 90s) euro CRT accepts NTSC composite video either through phono socket or scart, it's even more true with brand tvs like sonys. And a huge number of tv accept a 60hz signal through scart.
you can use an US NES (not the toploader because it's RF only) or a JP AV Famicom. You also need to be careful about power adapter, as those differ with regions. But sometimes you can use one from another console, ie a Megadrive 1 adapter will happily power a famicom.
60Hz support for PlayStation 2 games in PAL territories was abysmal. The GameCube is much better, 29 of the 30 games I have all support 60Hz with Luigi's Mansion being fullscreen 50Hz. For PS2 I stick to NTSC, Xbox I'm fine with PAL as that seemingly forces 60Hz. Dreamcast has fair 60Hz support for PAL stuff but I tend to go NTSC anyway due to game selection.
Prior to 6th gen though? NTSC all the way, fuck PAL.
>60Hz support for PlayStation 2 games in PAL territories was abysmal.
FFX and X-2? Slowdown and no fullscreen.
Kingdom Hearts? Slowdown and no fullscreen, in an action RPG.
Devil May Cry? A game focused on FAST-PACED NON-STOP ACTION? Slowdown and no fullscreen.
Same happened in FF9 too if I recall, which got a lot of flack for being slow.
I knew this was bullshit at such a young age I was considering writing a letter to the EU trade officials to highlight an issue that gamers were suffering.
Worst part? A large amount of TVs (especially those with SCART sockets) in Europe were perfectly able to handle 60hz. It wasn't even an option.
I'm in Sweden and can only remember owning one TV that couldn't deal with 60 Hz properly, but it would still display. The picture would just be a bit "compressed" vertically with some white lines visible on top. But it ate PAL 60 just fine otherwise. I didn't have anything NTSC at the time, but I guess it wouldn't have worked with that old set based on its odd behaviour with PAL 60. All sets since that set have however been perfectly able to deal with both PAL 50Hz and 60Hz as well as NTSC.
I actually even remember having a set that could deal with PAL color over what I believe to be an NTSC carrier (a.k.a. ultra-wierd PAL60, what my region-modded Saturn seems to be giving me), but it looked like shit. But since trashing that set I no longer have any equipment (modern flat screens can't deal with it what I've noticed) that can deal with the composite signal it puts out (RGB works fine). On PVMs you can force the mode to NTSC and you get black & white picture or you can force the mode to PAL and you get a rolling color picture...
>One of the reason NTSC-J and NTSC-UC games are going up and up is because you faggots keep buying them instead of your local PAL stuff.
I'd buy a different region, too, if mine was objectively inferior.
>One of the reason NTSC-J and NTSC-UC games are going up and up is because you faggots keep buying them instead of your local PAL stuff.
Guardian Heroes for Saturn costs an arm and a leg if you want the PAL or USA version, while the Japanese one goes for peanuts.
I have a Sega CD that usually freezes right when the BIOS load. It'll show the picture of the earth but the music doesn't play and it doesn't go any further. I got it to load normally once but it won't do it again. I've tried cleaning the connection between the Genesis and the CD. Any ideas?
Save for a few exceptions, game data is just game data. US and Euro discs usually contains the same exact content save for a few bytes in their header (region). There's often no advantage owning the US version of the game when you have the PAL one and a way of booting the game in NTSC mode on your machine.
I had originally started a thread regarding a sound problem my SNES is having, but was referred to this general repair thread here.
my original thread is >>2763843
Basically, every time I load up a cartridge with the extra pins on the sides (meaning it has an enhancement chip) the screen starts humming and the sound comes out terribly distorted. If I insert a regular cartridge (with no additional tabs, only the center chip) then the sound is perfect with no humming nor distortion. I recently gave the pins in the cartridge slot a quick spraying and wipe down with some DeOxit contact cleaner, but I'm not seeing anything dirty there regardless.
The sound issue is only present in carts with the extra tabs for enhancement chips... That's all I can tell so far. I don't have the tools needed for opening the SNES up for further inspection yet... But does this sound like an issue anyone else has dealt with before?
Would it be possible for the ROM chip inside a copy of Sonic Spinball(or any other Genesis game) to just die and refuse to load the game?
I have repeatedly cleaned and reseated my copy of Sonic Spinball on multiple consoles with no luck in getting it to load at all.
I've opened it up, and can't really see any broken traces or cracked solder joints; Could it be the single resistor(I believe it's a resistor) that is causing the problem?
I get Spinball is a very cheap game, I'd just like to know why it doesn't work.
only way to know for sure would be to dump the ROM and compare it to a known good dump. It's likely that the ROM chip has gone on you though, it happened to my copy of Pokemon Red that I got from a mate for free to try to fix, but couldn't get it to work past Oak's start speech.
>(meaning it has an enhancement chip)
It is basically the B Address bus along with other control signals that are useless for simple cartridges that just contain memory.
SuperFX doesn't even use these but has them as most carts rather use their own master clock oscillator, only early Starfox carts are the exception and SA-1 uses only the master clock (pin 1) and WRAM refresh (pin 33).
>the screen starts humming
>the sound comes out terribly distorted
The 2 pins at the right are audio inputs (pin 31 and 62), only used by SGB and SD2SNES.
>But does this sound like an issue anyone else has dealt with before?
For me it sounds like a serious voltage drop of the power supply.
As the hum could be your mains frequency finding it's way though the power supply into the 5V rail (causing video problems) and the ~9V before the 7805 (5V regulator) is very likely lower than 7V preventing the 7805 to work properly and cutting the signal output of the audio opamps (causing distortion of sound).
Cartridges with coprocessors do draw a little more current than simple ones (SuperFX draws about 50mA more), which is a sign that something's rather wrong with the power supply than console.
So what power supply are you using, NTSC or PAL, which games exactly do work fine and which ones doesn't?
>I don't have the tools needed for opening the SNES up for further inspection yet
Right now you're better off connecting the SNES to a lab power supply, if the current at 9-12V is higher than 0.75A then something in the console draws way more current than it should be.
I have 2 NES consoles that have broken/shit cases and need new pin connectors. Probably a little bit of rust on them.
I've held on to them since I was a kid.
I think the rusty one is my original that my grandma ended up keeping in a box on her porch after a hurricane.
ANYWAYS, my question is:
How much could I sell these for?
I'm sick of hoarding them.
Also, is there anything cool I could do with them? like a custom case I can make/buy or something.
>I have 2 NES consoles that have broken/shit cases and need new pin connectors. Probably a little bit of rust on them.
>How much could I sell these for?
Broken shells and non-functional? I'd be surprised if anyone would pay more than $15 for one, if that.
Thanks for taking the time to give such a detailed reply. I think you may be on to something here... Today it started acting up with every single cartridge (no matter if it had an enhancement chip or extra tabs or not... everything is buzzing when played now)... So I started looking into the power source... I do have an original AC adapter, but apparently the AC adapter port has become broken over time and is missing the ring in the center, leaving just the 2 pins that were apparently holding the ac adapter in place... The console will always turn on fin, but I'm guessing that has something to do with it changing the voltage along the way... I was hoping this would be an easy fix.
I've got experience with this stuff. I have an MVS that (thankfully) the previous owner replaced all the microswitches in before I got it...
But I do understand how that stuff works, and helped a friend replace all the buttons and switches when he got his.
Give me a few to type some shit...
In all fairness I doubt your average person looking to pick up a console for themselves will know how to fix an NES and probably won't be motivated to learn how to do so. Your best bet would be selling to a flipper, but they probably won't pay too much.
First up... How much do you already know? There's lots of general info which applies to MOST to ALL arcade controls that can help you here. But if you don't know much, it's still a pretty straightforward fix.
It's likely one of three things... Arcade buttons are comprised of the actual plastic housing you see from the outside (the pushbutton,) the micro switch that gets activated when you push down on the button, and the 2 wires that connect the switch to the main board.
1. The plastic button works may just be sticky or dirty.
2. The microswitch is worn and needs replacement.
3. The wires connecting the button are worn or faulty. (This one's unlikely, but troubleshooting 101 says we shouldn't rule that out yet.)
So again, how much do you know?
Also, again, this is a general arcade button fix. Neo Geo-related forums will likely help, but you needn't over specialize here. You can probably find how-to's on YouTube.
Move it closer. Lolololol.
It probably means the TV doesn't support the format. This is the common reaction when the game you're trying to play doesn't support VGA.
That's right. Not ALL DC games support VGA-out. It's a bummer.
Double check. Make sure the game you're playing does. Should say it on the game case. You should also make sure you can at least get the DC menu when you start it up with no game in / the lid open. You wanna rule out the box itself being the issue.
DualShocks typically don't have your run of the mill Printed Circuit Board (PCB.) It's usually this thin celophane-ish affair right below the buttons. Personally, I feel like that's just inviting malfunction into the picture. They're mostly good, tho I'm always quick to blame it when stuff like this goes wrong.
I've had the X button give out on my favorite Dual Shock too. It was the bright semitransparent island blue one, if that gives anyone any insight as to when I got it or when it was manufactured... if thats's even relevant. Didn't even use this one in a PC adapter. It just gave up after a while.
I'm gonna guess this is a PolyStation you're talking about... or at least that's what they call them here... The console where you lift up the CD cover to reveal a cartridge slot. lol
What kind of ideas are you looking for other than using that more realistic looking gun for Duck Hunt?
My friend has a Retrobit VGA box. He ran into this problem briefly. Seemed like the box was outputting composite (TV-related) sync data along with the other standard VGA data. His TV didn't like that and wouldn't display it, but the monitor I brought over for troubleshooting WOULD display it. Modern flat panel monitors tend to support a wider range of sync rates, whereas TVs with VGA-in don't always. It's finnicky and depends on the make, model, when it was made, blah blah blah.
Some questions for you:
The monitor it works on, is it a CRT or flat panel? Wide screen?
Is the VGA box official Sega, or aftermarket?
Does it have a switch on it? Are you sure the switch is in the right position?
Does it make sense that the console would power up fine and only have the sound affected by the lack of that power adapter ring? Because it's odd that the video would be so perfectly crisp whereas the audio is just absolute crap.
OK. Missed this post initially.
Yeah. Switches alone can be cheap depending on the brand and life expectancy. If you just want something functional, you've got lots of options. If you want something quick, snappy, and responsive, check with fighting game entusiasts. Tho you'll probably end up dropping considerably more then, and unless you're a big fight fan, might not even notice or care about the difference.
Consider swapping out the switches from the start buttons, or even the select button if you've got a multi slot MVS.
Yeah I went ahead and purchased buttons from groovy game gear because they looked reasonable.
This thing has very clearly been through the arcade, its fairly new to me.(september) and I decided to do the buttons since a few were unresponsive and more importantly it was just grimey as fuck all around. The control panel overlay was pretty fucking disgusting and theres some surface rust on the underside of the control panel so I'm gonna strip it and re paint it, but the weathers been shitty and I havent gone out.
update: I pulled apart the neo geo CD and found that the flex cable connecting the CD drive to the main board has two lifted pins on the cable itself. Anyone got any ideas on what to do?
Not him, but you know the contacts on the ends of a flex cable? They came up and are hanging off the cable.
You can try gluing them back down with some sort of heat setting glue and an iron, if the contacts haven't broken off.
If they have broken off, you're stuck with the task of finding a new cable.
I recently purchased a bunch of new N64 controllers that all have really tight, good condition sticks, that completely blow my old flaccid analog controllers out of the water
Is there a recommended brand of electronic/plastic safe grease that I can use on these to reduce future wear?
responding to an old ass post might be a waste of time but not many people realize that it's pretty easy to take out screws with pliers one they're sticking out enough to get a grip on them
flat panel, wide screen, I actually have a VGA cable not a box, it doesn't have a switch
The level of teardown necessary to grease up the moving parts in a 64 stick? Screw that, I'd say. If you ask me, it's more worth your while to wait til they need to be replaced and swap out the whole thing. It's quicker and easier.
Is it cheaper though?
Thought I saw N64 replacement sticks going for about $11 USD on the page the Wiki in OP's post points you toward for N64 repair.
For less labor and knowing it will last years, $11 is a fair compromise in my book.
Take this with a grain of salt, as I'm not personally there troubleshooting your situation...
I would assume from the sound of things that the sync data being output is composite compliant rather than VGA standard, which your monitor is supporting but your TV isn't.
Few more quick questions...
Does your monitor have an "info" or "status" display that has any hertz (hz or khz) data on it? If yes, what does it say when you're displaying Dreamcast on it?
When you're playing Dreamcast on it, is the picture kind of fuzzy or blurry? I assume the definition of individual pixels is still better than using the the composite red-white-yellow connectors, but if it's NOT pixel perfect crispness (or damn near it) that could certainly help the diagnosis.
PAL isn't inherently worse. It's the games that were developed for NTSC (as in, most of them coming out of Japan) that were later ported to PAL that no one bothered to change or compensate for speed differences, thereby altering gameplay.
Sloppy porting is the problem, and it's common on JP games that get ported to PAL regions. It's not PAL's fault.
>Is there a recommended brand of electronic/plastic safe grease that I can use on these to reduce future wear?
No recommended brand, just avoid anything petroleum-based.
White lithium is always a good bet, and you can find it everywhere.
>I thought the stick had its own little plastic box inside the controller to pop open. I may be thinking of something else.
It does. It's one screw more effort to open that up than to replace it entirely. Once it's open you can drop some grease in, close it, and wobble the stick around.
I tried gluing them back down with super tiny amounts of superglue but it didn't work obviously, since the pins popped back up. I might try that suggestion though, or say screw it and try to find a compatible cable on digikey or something.
I have this SNES that won't work with composite cables, however RGB and S-Video are working fine. What the hell?
Haven't tried with coaxial because I don't have that cable.
Could it be some blown capacitor?
60 hz. Pretty common for VGA... and NTSC TVs.
You using a PAL-compliant TV? That could be why.
Sorry, I'm still learning all this stuff about signals and sync rates. If you're on the EU side of the pond, incompatibility with PAL may be the issue. Otherwise, it may be a cheap cable, in which case I'd recommend a VGA box instead.
Either way, you may want to check in the CRT thread. This isn't necessarily a CRT problem, but those are the kind of videophiles who could probably help you out way quicker.
Over this way:
Okay, I want to play PS1 imports on my PS2 without installing a modchip or doing a disc swap while the disc is spinning. I thought Free McBoot would let me do that, but it apparently doesn't. I heard that I'd be able to with a PS1 Gameshark...Is this correct? If not, are there any other options?
update: after carefully reinserting the flex cable back into both ZIF sockets, and cleaning the laser, I can now report that the Neo Geo CD is alive again, working off a spare external IDE power supply.
>Neo Geo CD
Mind blown. My first encounter with ZIF wasn't til around Pentium 4s.
Then again, it wasn't til then that I actually started getting down and dirty with hardware. I may just be oblivious.
these have been around forever, the NGCD certainly wasn't the first to use them
Is that a true ZIF tho?
ZIF is Zero Insertion Force. Usually you just lay the component effortlessly in its slot and pull a slide/lever to lock it in place.
That looks a lot like any other flex cable slot where you do indeed have to exert a small amount of force to achieve insertion.
So the first mod I ever did was adding a mod chip to the big old PlayStation. I'm pretty sure that one turned out fairly neat. The kit came with nice wires and very explicit instructions.
The second one was adding s-video, stereo out, a power LED, and the Neo-Geo.com BIOS to a Neo Geo AES.
It all works how it's supposed to, but I'm getting horrible flash backs to cobbling it together with any dirty old wires I had laying around. My soldering skills were probably sub-par at the time too.
I'm very tempted to crack these babies open and share the (potential) horror with you guys. It's been years since I've looked inside them.
Got gifted these, what do?
- Three screen modules
- Four main modules
None tested before
Since I can't really buy a SMS locally, I've been scouring ebay for cheap ones. I keep seeing ones with cap repairs, do SMS caps have a short lifespan?
And is there a clone EverDrive for SMS for similar reasons?
The mainboard on the top right looks like it's pretty clean and well taken care of, attach one of the screen modules to it and see if it works. The screenboard on the bottom right looks pretty clean too.
The only "clone" ED I'm aware of is the one for the SNES, because Kritzz or whatever his name was contracted out to some Chinese company and they decided to make money off it.
But the SMS ED is less than $100, so it doesn't really matter.
I can post more tomorrow, actually...
Already tested all of them, could salvage 2 screens and 2 main boards... the others are beyond help... Still, what components could I use from them? Wanted to make a fake GB printer communicator so maybe I could use the cable link receiver part...
It was one of the ones that worked (main board), it has some trouble with the audio, tho. Maybe I'll try to do a pro-sound mod to skip the speaker
Some of the boards have this (pic related)... what could I do to fix it?...
Also as I got two screens and two main boards I'll have to order by mail some GB housings... chinese ones would do the job, right?
First time soldering and first idea for a mod.
>Has a box of barely working 3 button controllers for megadrive.
>"wouldn't it be great if these had microswitches instead of capacitive domes"
>buys microswitches and no fucks given or measured replaces all buttons.
>No Dpad clearance
>drill holes through where dpad belongs and sinks microswitches into board.
>fixes clearance issue
Most satisfying controller i've ever used for sega.
This might not be the place to ask this but I have a SNES controller that says "SNS-102" on the back. Thing is, it also says its a Super Famicom controller. I was under the impression that the model names started with SHVC
Is this controller from Japan or is it a North American model?
Well, the thing is, it has SNES style buttons (Purple) but the back clearly states its for the Super Famicom.
Not really worried about the connector, more about the history and this controller.
I suspect that this controller might have been paired with a Super Famicom Jr or sold around that time.
Hey I just came back after giving it a second look. I tested it on my PC (with a different adapter) and looking at the Windows gamepad options (the one that shows with a red light the buttons you're pressing), and turns out the X button works THE FIRST time I press it after connecting it. Then the button "stays pressed" (not the actual button, but the "red light" showed the button as if it was pressed forever).
Tried it on my PS1 and that exactly what it happens. The first time I press it it works, then the input somehow stays pressed (while the actual button comes back to position perfectly, it's in mint condition). If I disconnect the controller and connect it again, I again can press the button one time and it works except that the input stays pressed.
I'm telling you guys this in hope that this behavior helps more knowledgeable people see what could be the problem, and see if it has a fix. Thanks for advance either way!
ps: for the anon mentioning PS4 controller for PC, I want to fix this for my actual PS1 (and to have it as a working part of my collection, mostly), not for further use on PC. Also, since it's has L2 and R2 as regular buttons instead of triggers, it works great on my Game Boy Player with the Mayflash adapter (it's a very specific use, but I actually use this a lot). On the other hand, it's been harder than I thought finding mint condition DualShock1 on sites like eBay, it hurts to have my favourite one in great physical condition except for this flaw. My plan now is, if I can track down the actual piece that needs to be replaced, I'd gladly get an ugly used one and swap pieces.
I know the pre-dualshock PlayStation controllers had solid PCBs, but every dualshock I've opened had the plastic crap.
Not doubting what you're saying is true. Just that I haven't seen it personally.
Is it true that the PSone has better RGB output than other PlayStation models? I'm looking into purchasing a PS1 but it's difficult trying to weigh up the different attributes of each SKU; expansion-slot access, ease of modchip installation, RGB and audio output quality, etc..
Which do you guys think is the overall best PS1 hardware revision?
On the topic of PS1's, I bough a PS1 at a yard sale and noticed it had a mod chip installed when I went to clean the inside.
What's the best way to test how compatible this chip is?
I remember someone mentioning a game that has a high level of encryption that some older chips can't get past.
I like PSOnes because they're small and cute. Installing a modchip is kinda tricky though, but not impossible (Just don't glue it on top of the CPU like I did... I had to file the chip down to make it not obstruct the laser sled).
I don't know about the RGB quality because I have yet to replace my shitty chinese PSU that causes interference...
Bought a RGB cable the guy said it was shielded but it obviously isn't, my question is: Is it possible to shield it my self like this other RGB cable I got?
>The shielded cable.
>Only one single pin for ground
Do you even know what it means?
Every video and audio wire should have their own shielding for best and interference free quality.
Also this one has the AC coupling capacitors while >>2778347 has not, they won't affect the picture quality but rather serve as protection.
This is a shielded SCART cable, every analogue signal has their own shielding and there's a another shield around all wires to keep the mains hum out.
Well I thought it was shielded beacuse of the plastic around the wires, that cable has no hearable screen buzz. Another question:
The 1st cable I posted is for the SNES, I heard a lot of screen buzz, but the seller said this was something akin to certain SNES versions and couldn't be improved by shielding the cable. Is this true?
>The 1st cable I posted is for the SNES, I heard a lot of screen buzz, but the seller said this was something akin to certain SNES versions and couldn't be improved by shielding the cable. Is this true?
It's horse shit.
Buzzing audio in scart cables is a prime example of interference caused by lack of shielding. It's simple enough to tell that it is interference caused by the video signal simply from the fact that the more luminous the screen is, the higher voltage you have in the video signals, and the more they interfere with the audio - causing you more buzz in white screens and less in black ones.
If the cable is entirely unshielded, then you can even get image rollover on the video, caused by some part of the signal interfering with the RGB signal. I had cheap play-asia cable look and sound worse than composite due to lack of shielding.
If you just have a thick mesh shielding around all the cables, that's enough to fix most of the issues and reduce the audio noise. But to completely eliminate it, you also need at least the audio cables to be covered by a separate mesh shielding, linked to their ground pin - optimally the same for each individual video pin too, but at least have it on the audio pins.
Individually shielded scart cables tend to cost quite a bit more than non-shielded ones however.
>SNES, I heard a lot of screen buzz,
Not sure how much it can be applied to NTSC.
The mains hum in audio is rather normal, it can be reduced to almost nothing if a strong modern switching supply (>1.2A 9-12VDC) is used.
But a classic transformer (original PSU with 9VAC) has it's advantage with being simple and very reliable (unless it's chinese 3rd party garbage), the hum can be reduced greatly by adding additional 4700-6800µF capacitance parallel to the stock 2200µF capacitor (it's the hugest one in the PAL SNES).
>but the seller said this was something akin to certain SNES versions and couldn't be improved by shielding the cable. Is this true?
You mean the 15khz video?
Like it gets loud with a brighter screen?
That one can be avoided with a properly shielded cable, but it's unlikely that you can buy a good one for cheap.
It's cheaper to make a short (10-30cm) adapter with shielded cables (can be either 50 or 75 ohms) with a SCART socket on the end, then just use a good SCART cable to connect it to the TV.
This is what I did. And the interference on both audio and video is very very low.
>Buzzing audio in scart cables is a prime example of interference caused by lack of shielding
Exactly, the wires are running parallel. In that way they are prone to crosstalk, another phenomenon is the appearance of an "crosshatch" pattern which is the chrominance finding it's way into the luminance (Y from S-Video) or RGB signals.
Also it's worth noting that there are JP-region Saturns with 240V PSUs that were sold in one or the other south east asian country, which if you could get your hands on one would spare you the adapter.